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The so called 'Haunted' mountains of the Satpura Ranges: Pachmarhi

achmarhi the only hill station of Madhya Pradesh surrounded by waterfalls, cave temples and the forested ranges of the Satpura National Park and offers a refreshing escape from steamy central India.

Weekend respite – LANSDOWNE (from Delhi)

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Monday, January 20, 2014

Weekend respite – LANSDOWNE (from Delhi)



Sunrise from our hotel in Lansdowne
How to reach:  By road you can cover the 256 km distance between Delhi and Lansdowne in about 4-6 hours.
Where: Situated at 1700 mts above the sea level Lansdowne is the regimental Office of the formidable Garhwal Rifles of the Indian Army, located in the Pauri Garhwal district of Uttarakhand.
This cantonment town has a timeless charm with its pine trees and mossy surfaces. Little bungalows belonging mostly to army officials dot the slope at intervals. A walk through the slopes or drive on the well maintained meandering roads will surely grant anyone the elusive peace of mind. In the middle of the town stands the market place with a grand little white-washed post-office of British architecture and an old time stand-alone movie theater staying in sync with the nostalgic charm of the town. Though the ambience of this place in itself merits being a good enough travel destination there are a few must-visit tourist spots:
Bhulla Tal
  • The Tip and Top viewing point affords a breath-taking view of the snow-covered Garhwal Himalayas. Spend some magical moments lost in the majesty of the range during sunrise/sunset. You can make a quick trip to the Santashi Maa temple which is a bit beyond the viewing point. 
  • The Garhwal Rifles regimental Darwan Singh museum and their parade ground radiate the hard-earned glory of this famous regiment. The history of the illustrious regiment, the never ending honour-rolls and medals earned by the soldiers and their valiant stories are all very over-whelming. 
  • Situated amidst the thick oaks and pine trees are the St John and St Mary churches where you are transported to the British era with their serene and untouched beauty. Inside, the monochrome wedding pictures held in the church from that era gives you a certain hit of nostalgia. 
  • The artificial dam erected by the Army to create the Bhulla Tal is a perfect spot to sit and soak in the sun and the simple charm of this town with ducks, birds and rabbits vying for your attention. It is the perfect spot to spend some time with a book or your loved ones.

Tarkeshwar Mahadev Temple



But religious or not, it is highly recommended to take a short excursion to the Tarkeshwar Mahadev Temple. The 40 km drive on the narrow bendy roads is a joy in itself. Once you reach the spot you have to walk through the pine forests for a good 10-15 mins to reach the temple. It will certainly take your breath away in every sense and awaken your spiritual side. In a clearing of the pine trees are the small temples dedicated to unique shiv-lingam. The last bit of path leading to the temple is lined with rows of temple of every size. You can ring them as you walk along and they reverberate through the solitude of the forest.  It does make you wonder that it is indeed a befitting place for the Almighty to reside. Pray and leave your burdens behind in this temple and the adjacent Gauri Kund. There is a small ashram adjacent to the temple compound for tourist to stay and meditate to get in touch with their inner-self. Admittedly, I have not been able to avail of these facilities but the was sorely tempted with the thought of changing my plans and stay blissfully lost to the outer world. It was indeed a place worthy of attempting to achieve nirvana.
If you want to escape from your everyday life and travel back in time for the weekend, Lansdowne is the perfect place – just laze around, soak up the ambience and feel invigorated to face your everyday challenges again.

[Heads-up: Tata Photon did not have any coverage there when I went. So your taking work along is probably not a good idea. Though Airtel had good coverage throughout, and the phone data connection was sufficient for the bare minimum].

Dam at Bijnor
On the way:
At Bijnor, on our way to Lansdowne, we drove over the massive dam on the River Ganga. We stopped here for half an hour for the expansive view and to go to the ghat and pay homage to Ganga.

Detours:
In our attempt to add some adventure to this leisurely trip we visited Karnamuni ka Ashram on our way to the Lansdowne and Hastinapur on our way back.

Kanwamuni ka Ashram (the temple barely visible)
Kanwamuni ka Ashram is where Shakuntala grew up and met King Dushwant. Her son, Bharat, from whom India inherits her name Bharat, was born here. Enough reason for about 20 Km detour from our chosen route to Lansdowne.  After an uneventful drive through the not too crowded locality where everyone can point you towards the Ashram, a turn in the road suddenly changed the scene. The greenery and the solitude remind you of the stories as this place to be where King Bharat played with lions as a kid while growing up. Malini River flows along the road and on the other side, perched on the hill is a temple dedicated to Kanwamuni. Houses and a foot bridge being constructed right where we stopped to reach the temple contrasted starkly with the surrounding. We crossed the icy cold river on foot to reach the temple, only to realise that the path to reach the temple was too overgrown with creepers to make an approach possible. We later learnt that the path is cleared at a certain time of the year (around March) when people come to pay pilgrimage to the temple. At other times it just remains isolated and unapproachable.



The wall at Hastinapur
Hastinapur is a fully developed town and have no hope of holding on to any grand illusion of it remotely resembling the seat of power of the Kouravas, around which the story of Mahabharata revolves. Gigantic innumberable Hindu and Jain temple complexes dominate this overcrowded town. We were short on time and only interested in finding out the remnants of the palace of the Kouravas, if any. Hence, we gave the temples a miss and our search led us to an extremely old and secluded temple at the edge of the town. From here, directed by the locals we reached a walled area within which we were told once stood the palace. It sure looked like some great structure stood there once upon a time, now disappeared beneath the soil, and overgrown trees. We proceeded on foot to the centre of this walled area to be rewarded with a very tiny portion of some extremely old wall  of some fort like structure still standing in the middle though am extremely doubtful if it has any relation to the actual palace. And to our bewilderment, there were families cooking and spending a leisurely outing on top of the only ruin that stands there. Absolute anti-climax. Basically, not worth the detour in my opinion but then the importance of Hastinapur in indisputable.

Monday, January 13, 2014

Destination Guide- Khajuraho




About Khajuraho: Situated in the Bundelkhand region (Chhatarpur District) Madhya Pradesh, India is a popular tourist destination for Indian as well as Foreign Nationals. Khajuraho is famous for its group of temples or monuments. As its beautiful backdrop Khajuraho has the Vindhya range of mountains. This makes Khajuraho a more fascinating destination to visit. Many travellers complain about the tiring persistence of touts here, their complaints are well founded, but be aware that missing out on Khajuraho means missing out on some of the most beautiful temples in India.

These temples were built between 950 AD to 1050 AD by Chandela dynasty. The temple are superb example of Indo-Aryan architecture, but it’s their liberally embellished cravings that have made Khajuraho famous. The erotic sculptures of Khajuraho depicting Kama Sutra are unique and one of the finest in the world. Varaha, Kandariya-Mahadev, Devi Jagadamba, Lakshamana are the few temples among the Western group of temples. Each temple bears artistic stonework showing a storyboard of gods, goddesses, warriors, musicians, real and mythological animals. 

These temples have been accorded UNESCO World Heritage Site status.




Some of those easy-to-miss details:
First see the sandstone boar in the Varaha Shrine before heading towards the Lakshmana Temple which has some of raunchiest artwork in Khajuraho. Next is Khajuraho’s largest temple Kandariya-Mahadev. Cravings to look for here include the famous handstand position, but the most impressive thing about this temple is the scale of it, particularly its soaring rooftops. Mahadeva and Devi Jagadamba share the same stone plinth as Kandariya-Mahadev. Walk north from here to Chitragupta, with beautiful cravings hidden on the west side. The interior here is particularly impressive. Then continue east to Vishvanath temple for more fabulous cravings before admiring the impressive statue of Vishnu’s bull in the Nandi shrine opposite.

Other places to visit: Eastern group of Jain and Hindu temples, Archaelogical Museum.
A good way to get around and see the temples as well the village life in Kharujaho is by bicycle, which you can easily rent in the bike shops near the main temple complex, or bicycle rickshaw. They charge around Rs.20 per day.


Don't Miss: Admittedly, the temples do look magical illuminated with technical floodlights so don't miss the the Light & Sound show at Western group of temples and the Bundelkhand Dance show at Community Centre, where the folk dance can be seen at the comfortable indoor Dance Hall held every evening between 6-9 pm.

Time to visit: September to March. The Annual Dance Festival takes place during Feb-March every year.

Where to Stay: Hotel Chandela, Radisson, The Lalit Temple are the popular 5 star properties while lots of budget accommodations could be found including MP Tourism's Jhankar, Payel and Tourist Village. 

How to reach: Khajuraho is connected to Delhi and Varanasi by Air and by Rail from Delhi. Khajuraho has a good network of roads connecting Panna, Gwalior and other major towns and cities.

Places around Khajuraho: You can try to visit Raneh Falls- 30m-high waterfalls which is around 18 km from Khajuraho it looks beautiful during or after rain. It is possible to view gharials- a critically endangered species of crocodile at Ken Gharial Sanctuary 8 km beyond the falls. Also you can visit Panna National Park Panna is a beautiful to picturesque place to spend a day on your way to or from Khajuraho. In face its easy enough to do an afternoon safari here as a day trip from Khajuraho.  Even if you don't stay the night here it is worth making  Jungle Camp your base. www.jcmadla@mptourism.com and you can also arrange jeep safaris. Nevertheless it is a good place to see crocodiles, and with the Ken river flowing through it.
Visit :http://www.khajurahotourism.com/ or http://www.mptourism.com/web/explore/destinations/khajurao.aspx  to book hotels and to plan your trip accordingly.




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