The so called 'Haunted' mountains of the Satpura Ranges: Pachmarhi

Pachmarhi the only hill station of Madhya Pradesh surrounded by waterfalls, cave temples and the forested ranges of the Satpura National Park and offers a refreshing escape from steamy central India. Bridle paths lead into placid forest groves of wild bamboo, jamun, dense sal forests and delicate bamboo thicket, it offers absolute tranquility. 
 Much of this ambience has been set, and is still being maintained, by the strong presence of the Army. The old cottages, meticulously maintained by the Military Engineering Serivces, have changed little since the days of Kipling. 

Pachmarhi is a pleasure for people like me who love the idea of taking some time off from the daily work schedule and to relax somewhere far away from the hustle bustle of the cities. Anyhow, the place is so small it is barely a town. Forests and ancient rocks encroach its space from all sides. Narrow roads wind their way past ‘haunted’ colonial houses and mysterious churches. It might look like as if everything has a story to tell. Many people whom I know have experienced certain mysterious and unnatural activities when visited the place. You might experience a spooky feeling at night since the entire town becomes deserted. But the place is very scenic and peaceful and it has its own charm.

Even if you don’t plan to go on an organised trek or jeep safari, you can easily spend a couple of days here cycling or hiking to the numerous sights.

Places to Visit

Pandava Caves
A tourist landmark in Panchmarhi, Pandav Caves lend their name to this picturesque hill resort of Madhya Pradesh. According to local legends and popular beliefs, the five Pandav brothers of Mahabharata, along with their wife 'Draupadi', spent a part of their exile here.

Catholic Church
Built by the British in 1892, this ancient monument displays a striking blend of French and Irish architecture. The stained glass windows beautify the edifice and add to its magnificence. It also has an old cemetery attached to it. The tombstones here dates back to 1859, World War I and World War II. It look like an old  haunted Church.

 Pic Source-tripadvisor

Pic Source- ghumkkar.com

Christ Church
The British built this church in 1875. Considered as the most stunning small church in Madhya Pradesh, the building displays an artistic architectural style. It has a hemispherical dome on top of its 'sanctum-sanctorum'. The tinted glass panes gilded on the walls and the altar present dazzling views as sunrays pass.



Priyadarshini Point
Earlier known as Forsyth Point, it was named after Captain James Forsyth who discovered Panchmarhi from this point. Witnessing the spectacular sunset views from this vantage point, when the three peaks - Chauradeo, Mahadeo and Dhupgarh, play with various hues, is a privileged sight.

Jatasankar
A sacred cavern under a mass of loose boulders, the place is named 'Jatasankar', as a rock formation here resembles the tangled manes of Lord Shiva. The 'Samadhistha Shiva' in this dark cave resembles the hood of a serpent and is a site of awe and reverence.

Handi Khoh
Earlier known as 'Andhi Kho' amongst the natives, it is the deepest of all the gorges at Pachmarhi and is nearly 300 ft deep. It is shadowed in a wild thicket, with dramatically steep sides.

Mahadeo
 Sal trees and precarious hairpin bends lead to the cave shrine of Mahadeo. Drops of water trickle from the roof of this cave and form a holy pool in which the devotees can take a dip. The large 'shivlinga' of this shrine is the main site of worship. Pilgrims flock to the place, especially during 'Shivratri'.

Chauragarh.
4 km from Mahadeo, it is one of Satpura's prominent land marks, the summit crowned with emblems of Mahadeo worship.

Dhoopgarh.
The highest point in the Satpura range, with a magnificent view of the surrounding ranges.  Also popularly known as the sunset point.

Reechhgarh.
A wonderful natural amphitheater in the rock, approached through a cave-like entrance on the South-side.

Jalawataran (Duchess Fall)
The most beautiful of all Pachmarhi falls, it can be reached only on foot. The descent to the fall is steep and the journey is quite arduous. This fall plunges down in three different cascades, accompanied by deafening sounds. No doubt, the alluring sight and sound of the place makes it a hot spot amongst tourists.

Sunder Kund (Saunder's Pool)
Crossing the stream below Duchess Fall and following a footpath about 2.5 km in a south- west direction, brings one to a huge rocky pool that is excellent for a refreshing swim.

Where to Stay
Pachmarhi is a popular tourist retreat. Tourists visit pachmarhi through out the year. There are numerous hotels but only few of them are located in civil area of pachmarhi away from houch pouch market area to stay in peaceful location. One can consider staying at any of the guest houses or hotels run by Department of Tourism (Govt. of Madhya Pradesh). Various private resorts and cottage/hotel facilities are also available.

How to reach
Pachmarhi is around 47 km from Pipariya. Pipariya is on Itarasi-Jabalpur rail line, 2 hours from Jabalpur and approximately 1 hour from Itarsi. Pachmarhi can also be reached directly by bus from Bhopal, which is 210 km away by road, Itarsi or Jabalpur.
Pachmarhi can also be reached from Nagpur. The Mahrashtra State Road Transport Corporation has started 2x2 luxury buses, or with private cars which will take around eight hours to reach Pachmarhi.

Don’t Miss
Don’t forget to try the adventure sports there. From Para-sailing to Rock climbing and Biking you will get to enjoy all of these at the same place same location.

Tagged: #Pachmarhi #MadhyaPradesh #Haunted #Church #Parasailing #SatpuraNationalPark

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A day in Banaras and Sarnath

Ever experienced the feeling of waking up in the morning and finding yourself absolutely incapable of carrying on with your daily life? When you just can’t put one foot before the other without wishing that the world should have ceased to exist yesterday?  On days of a mental breakdown, all you can do is just get away. And if it is the right place, just a day is enough.

Last time we felt like smashing our laptops and hitting someone in the face with its broken remnants, we just boarded an overnight train to Banaras for a saner frame of mind with absolutely no plan. And some day it was!

Our train reached Banaras station an hour before sunrise and having no specific place to go, we decided to go to the Ghats. An auto took us halfway there and then left in the dark, we decided to follow a procession of chanting Sadhus to the ghats. And it set the mood for the entire day. The surreal experience of chants floating around in the darkness guided us to the most popular ghat – the Dasaswamedha Ghat. We sat at the ghat admiring the Ganga in the semi-darkness of the day break until a boat man convinced us that the sunrise from his boat would be the best thing we would experience in Banaras. It was. The solitude, the sound of his oars in the water while we sat watching the rising sun in silence was breathtaking.  On our way back he regaled us with the name, meaning and function of the numerous ghats of Banaras. He left us off near a temple we had to visit according to him and every online guide we found, but we gave the temple a miss witnessing the crowd that was now

jostling at its gate. Instead we chose to roam around the captivating galis of Banaras bursting with life and hiding temples at every turn. By the time we settled down for breakfast at the Lotus Lounge, at the deserted and unknown ghat of Manaswarovar, we had lost count of the number of temples we had paused to admire wide-eyed. We spent more than an hour and a half taking in the panoramic view of the river (and the activities around it) that the place afforded while enjoying an exceptional breakfast.

By this time, the sun was beating down upon us and we decided to head to a less chaotic Sarnath. A 13 Km auto-ride later, we were staring at an 80 ft tall statue of Budhha at the Thai Buddha Vihar. From there we went to the  Mulagandhakuti Vihara temple and paid homage to the Bodhi tree. We then walked a short distance to the Sarnath Archaeological Mueseum and then headed to the Deer Park. This park is where Lord Buddha first delivered his discourse of his Dhamma and the Dhameka Stupa now marks the sacred place. After exploring the different ruins in this park, one of which is the remains of the  Dharmarajika Stupa which once contained the bones of Buddha, we settled down in the shadow of the Dhameka Stupa to take in the blissful surrounding and the peace emanating from the entire place was now permeating through every pore of our body. An hour later we were joined by a monk who settled down at some distance close enough for us to hear him imparting his wisdom to anyone who wished to pay their reverence to him, but far enough for us to choose to ignore it all and just float away.

Another hour later, we walked around the stupa thrice, as per the directions of the monk and pray for the illusive peace of mind and leave, fully rested and rejuvenated. On our way back to Banaras, with plenty of time to kill, we decided to visit the Ramnagar Fort. The vast collection of antiques and weaponry at the Fort amazed us though their deplorable and dilapidated condition due to lack of maintenance was infuriating. We were rewarded for our then anti-establishment thoughts by being chased by a few bats in a dark deserted passageway.

Finally, being back to Banaras we decided to witness the evening arati at the ghats. After the serenity of Sarnath, being in no mood to push through the large crowds that throng the ghats in the evening for the puja, we chose a much less crowded Assi Ghat which seemed very popular amongst the younger travellers. The laid back attitude of this particular ghat was what suited us most - we sat there to witness a lone Brahmin perform the puja in front of a bewitched gathering.

After the puja, we walked around a bit more, until it was too late to do so, headed to the station and waiting for our train to take us back to the real world – which seemed infinitely more bearable after an entire day of spiritually enthralling instances.

Banaras was an incomparable mix of emotions – we found solitude and peace in the most crowded places. We were surprised at the architectural marvels casually tucked away at every corner. There were cows bang in the middle of the narrow galis we had to tip toe around while fearing we might get mauled. There were 6 years olds begging fluently in English, French and Spanish. There were Sadhus posing for the most extraordinary pictures in exchange of money. There were policemen who spent 20 mins helping us look up places on our phones long after we sincerely thanked them for all their help. There were people who so extraordinarily overcharged us that we did not even realise what transpired for hours afterward. There was a Rickshawala so courteous that we felt guilty to quantify his help and service in terms of money.

And then, there is the memory of the Ganga glistening golden in the sunrise. The memory of the silence in the shade of the Stupa with the monk’s soft prayer in the background. The memory of the evening Arati with the tiny specks of flames dancing in the dark. For months afterward, every time I dreaded switching on my laptop, all it took was a deep breath and those images in my head to carry on through tempers and tears.

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In search of Man Eaters of Kumaon: Jim Corbett National Park

The Jim Corbett National Park is a heaven for all those who are even remotely interested in wildlife and wildcat. With the best tiger population, the park is the best place to spot the elusive animals. Other than the tigers, the park has a lot more to offer. Rich grasslands, varied avian populace and diverse creatures make the park an interesting bio hot spot. The park has a picturesque location at the foothills of the Himalayas on the banks of river Ramanganga along the sandy banks. 

It was one of the most thrilling and adventurous trip I have ever experienced till now.

How to reach: This is located in the district of Nainital in the state of Uttarakhand. From Delhi, take the Ranikhet Express, or Jim Corbett Express an overnight train from the Old Delhi railway station to Ramnagar, the nearest railhead. Otherwise, you can drive down about 295 kilometers through Hapur, Garhmukteshwar and the Moradabad bypass.

By Air: Patnagar airport is the nearest airport that is around 80 kms from Jim Corbett National Park and is connect to Delhi with daily flight.
By Rail: Ramnagar is the nearest railways station from the National Park which is situated around 5 kms away. Ramnagar Railways station is well connected with major cities of India. By road: It is well connected by motor able roads with major cities of Northern India. 


Places to Visit: Only some selected areas in the 521 square kilometers’ expanse of the park are open to tourists. These are classified into five zones named Dhikala, Bijrani, Jhirna, Domunda and Sonanandi.
For morning and evening jeep safaris you can visit the different areas like  Bijrani Zone, Jhirna Zone, Dhikala Zone etc. Corbett National Park is famous for the richness and diversity of its wildlife which includes over 50 species of mammals and over 580 species of birds. It is an important refuge for the tiger, Indian elephant, wild dog, leopard cat, Indian pangolin and hog deer. Different birds and deers like Sambhar, Barking Deers, Spotted Deers, Monkeys, Crocodile, Jackals, Hog Deer, Leopards, etc. However, the chances of a spotting one are rare given the abundant cover the forest offers.

 At this point, it is important to re-emphasize that a trip to Corbett or any other forest should not be centered on spotting a tiger alone. While tigers are undoubtedly majestic creatures, a jungle needs to be enjoyed for what it is  a absolute treasure trove of diverse flora and fauna.

Where to stay: Resorts on the outskirts of the national park appear whichever way you look, each one promising a more magnificent view of the region than the other. Though, a stay in a Forest Rest House inside the jungle is preferable if one wants a real experience of the Jim Corbett National Park.
Dhikala comes highly recommended and is perhaps, the most popular. From the entry gates of the Corbett national park, it takes about two hours on a rocky road to reach the Forest Rest House.
It is a picturesque location at the edge of a grassy plateau perched high above the Ramganga reservoir and set into a bend in the river. Overnight stay provides the unique opportunity to experience the thrill along with the tiger’s roar which will actually get you goose bumps. There is no mobile network and no electricity.

Nature and Landscapes:  No other park in India offers such a breathtaking diversity.
As night falls, the jungle comes alive; the serpentine Ramganga gleams under the moonlight and lights twinkle from the villages atop the foothills.

Nature's best offering is the green and copper beauty of the forest of Sal; she has spread a carpet of the glowing red flowers of the flame of the forest, different kinds and varieties of flowers can be found, a scene or remarkable beauty, nestling in the foothills of Kumaon, the delicate drapery of ferns and creepers and the waving Tiger grass producing an unforgettable scene of grandeur, while the different colorful birds and their continuous chirping, add to the enchantment. Although the Sal timber is felled and extracted in certain parts, the natural beauty of the Jim Corbett National Park area has remained unspoiled, particularly beautiful when the flowering trees are in full bloom.

Elephant Safari: One can choose to see the jungle on an elephant safari, a completely different experience. It is only on an elephant that you will be able get an opportunity to go deep inside the forest.

Excursions around the reserve area of the Corbett National Park is the nature lover's ultimate reward - wild and dense, the forest treks start from right outside the reserve area of the park. The natural and man-made trails will take you as deep inside as you may dare to go.

Corbett museum and Fall Corbett's home at Kaladungi, around 32 Kms from Ramnagar on Nainital Road, is now a museum which houses memorabilia of the legendry hunter.
Today this unique home is a comprehensive museum housing souvenirs, relics, mementos related to Jim Corbett.

Tip: Be careful not to throw any plastic bottles, packets and any such rubbish. Also, taking of flash-light photographs and driving of motor-vehicles in the night is prohibited.

The best season to visit: From March to June when the wildlife comes out of hibernation or their lairs, to welcome the visitors. The weather is very pleasant and the visibility is excellent. In May and June the days begin to warm up, but the night remains pleasant. The park is closed from June to October 31.
   
For booking and more information please contact : http://www.corbettnationalpark.in/

Tagged: #JimCorbettNationalPark  #Ramnagar #tigerreserve #NationalPark #Dhikala 

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Gurudongmar- Sikkim's Secret

Gurudongmar Lake: http://www.indiamike.com/india-images/pictures/gurudongmar-lake-7

I have been fortunate enough to travel across the Ladakh region and obviously been in absolute love with that place (and Buddhism) ever since. But every time I see the now famous pictures of the Pangong Lake, I can’t help but reminisce about another trip undertaken almost a decade back to pay homage to the Gurudongmar Lake. Lying at an altitude of more than 17,000 ft , in the district of North Sikkim, near the China border, this lake is one of the highest lakes in the world. I have known people who have been inspired enough to attempt to reach this lake several times (the weather in this region a bit tricky) and I have known people who simply do not realise the existence and easy accessibility of this lake. So here is an attempt to introduce it to those people, the exceeding beauty of the North Sikkim District.

So, the Gurudongmar Lake, aside from its obvious breath-taking beauty, is of religious importance to both the Buddhists and the Sikhs.  As per legend, Guru Nanak had visited this Lake and had blessed it so that the water of the Lake does not freeze even at the height of winter. Surrounded by snow-clad peaks, this Lake is also one of the sources for River Teesta. Lying in a military controlled area, photography was restricted and so was roaming around too far around the lake. But standing next to the Lake in itself, in its icy surrounding and silence, is indeed an experience of a lifetime.

The Trip as far as I remember:

TO GANGTOK:        It all starts from Gangtok which is more or less the main base for Sikkim Tourism. It can be reached by car from Bagdogra Airport, Siliguri if you are flying or from the New Jalpaiguri Railway Station, if you are taking the train. Once you reach Gangtok the options are plenty, including local sightseeing.

TO LACHEN: In between Gangtok and Lachen, lies Mangan, the headquarters of North Sikkim and also known as the Cardamom capital of the world. From there, a little ahead is the town of Chungthang. This quaint little town is where the Lachen River and the Lachung River meet to form River Teesta. Also, as per the locals, Buddhist Guru, Guru Padmasambhabwa (by the way, Guru Nanak is said to have followed his footsteps in this region) had spent some time in this town and left his footprint on the rock where he rested. And, Lachen (“the big pass”) boasts of a beautiful monastery and a panoramic view of the Himalayan Range. When we were there, the town had only one tiny hotel and our car was loaded with most of our food provisions, tourism was so new to this place. But, the locals were unbelievably friendly and hospitable.

TO GURUDONGMAR LAKE: From Lachen, the journey took us through Thangu. A village sort of place with a teashop offering jackets and caps to sustain against the cold of the Gurudongmar region. The land from here forward was absolutely barren. Once you enter this region, photography is restricted. Around 5 Kms from the sacred Gurudogmar Lake, there is the Tso Llamo Lake which has the honour of being the highest lake in India (We were not allowed to visit this lake at that point of time due to its proximity to the Chinese boreder but I believe nowadays Indians are allowed after they obtain the necessary permits). On our way back, we stopped at the Chopta Valley which is the most perfect resting spot surrounded by mountains, tributaries criss-crossing it and with its lush vegetation.

TO LACHUNG AND YUMESANGDONG: Lachung (“the small pass”) is accessed through the Chungthang valley. Situated on the confluence where the Teesta River originated, this town has a Tibetan charm with its own colourful monastery. Yumthang Valley on the way, is known as the valley of flowers with a riot of colors - various species of rhododendrons and some orchids. It had a picturesque little resort and a bridge on the Teesta River with a Shivmandir. Further still is Yumesangdong known as the Zero Point. It affords a brilliant panoramic view of snow clad mountains and some snow on the ground as well, while you are at it.

TO KATAO: This is a place we were unable to reach. It was closed down due to on-going military exercise. A huge loss on our part, as Katao is what the locals declare to be the crown jewel of the region and we had a hard time imagining anything more beautiful than what we experienced in that week. What we did witness though was a Bofor gun being maneuvered around the hairpin bends of the roads while we were stuck helpless at the side of the road. Some memories!

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Introducing Leh the land of endless discovery! Part 1 (Leh-Ladakh)

There are a very few places in India which are at once so traveller-friendly and yet so enchanting and hassle-free as mountain-framed Leh. Speckled with stupas and crumbling mud-brick houses, the Old Town is dominated by a dagger of steep rocky ridge topped by an imposing Tibetan-style palace and fort. Beneath, the lively bazaar area is draped in a thick veneer of tour agencies, souvenir shops and pizza restaurants, but a web of lanes quickly fans out into a green suburban jerry-rigged of irrigated barley fields. Here, narrow footpaths and gushing streams link traditionally styled Ladakhi buildings with flat roofs, sturdy walls and highly wrought wooden window frames. Leh’s a place that’s all too easy to fall in love with, but take things easy on arrival. The altitude means that most visitors initially suffer mild headaches and breathlessness. To prevent this becoming full-blown Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), drink plenty of ginger tea and avoid strenuous exertion at first. 

About: Ladakh, the coldest desert in the world. As the highest inhabited land in the world, it is both fascinating and enchanting for travellers across the Globe. Ladakh means "land of high passes". Fabulously serrated, arid mountains embrace this magical, Buddhist ex-kingdom. Colourful fluttering prayer flags spread their spiritual messages so as the prayer wheels spun clockwise release more merit-making mantras. Gompa interiors are colourfully awash with murals. Ladakh’s extraordinarily well-balanced traditional society has much to teach in terms of ecological awareness. Whereas most Ladakhis are comparatively cash poor, traditional mud-brick homesteads are large, comfortable and self-sufficient in fuel and dairy products, organic vegetables and barley used to make tsampa (roast barley flour) and chhang. Such self-sufficiency is an incredible accomplishment given the short growing season and very restricted arable land in this upland desert, where precious water supplies must be arduously channelled from glacier-melt mountain streams.

How to reach Ladakh: By Air – Flights are dramatically scenic, but can be cancelled at short notice. Al though flying into Leh means you’re likely to suffer mild altitude problems on arrival.

By Manali-Leh Road: Fabulously beautiful but gruellingly rough (takes around minimum 22 hours). The road is frequent subject to landslides and is generally closed from October-May.

By Srinagar- Leh Road: The route is less physically painful and lower altitude but also less spectacular than Leh- Manali road. The road is generally closed from November to May.

Places to Visit: 

Leh Palace:  Also known as Namgyal Palace. Bearing a passing similarity to the Potala Palace in Lhasa (Tibet), a nine-storey dun-coloured palace took shape under 17th-century king Sengge Namgyal.  It has been unoccupied since 1846. Today the very brawny walls are mostly austere, but it’s smoothly thrilling to weave your way through the maze of dark corridors, hidden stairways and makeshift ladders to reach the rooftop for great views across the city.
Appealing structures ranged around the palace include the famous Namgyal Stupa , the 1430 Chamba Lhakhang with medieval mural fragments between the inner and outer walls, and the colourfully muralled Chandazik Gompa celebrating the full pantheon of 1000 Buddhas  (of which 996 have yet to be born). You can also seek out the small palace prayer room and a one-room exhibition showing photos of Jammu & Kashmir’s monument restoration.

Shanti Stupa:  Built in around  1991 by Japanese monks to promote world peace, this huge, hilltop stupa has brightly coloured reliefs on its mid levels and is topped by a spired white hemisphere. The greatest attraction is the astonishing view of Leh. Ideally, make the breathless 15-minute climb when golden afternoon light still illuminates the city.

Nezer Latho: This is a whitewashed cube, topped by a sheaf of juniper twigs, is the shrine of Leh’s guardian deity. It gives a 360 degree views over the city through colourful stings of prayer flags.

Gomang Stupas, Tsemo Fort, Chowkhang Gompa, Guru Lhakhang Shrine and other Palace Gompas are among the other places to pay a visit when you are in the city.


You can also visit- War Museum (War Museum, Leh). A very interesting place run by the Indian Army showcasing the history, glory and the tools of the trade related to army operations defending India in some of the most hostile terrain in the world. It also has a mesmerizing display on the Siachen battlefield - the highest and more arduous battlefield in the world. Also visit the Magnetic Hills, Baba Pathar Saheb Gurudwara and Sangam which are a few kilometres away from the War Museum.

Accommodation: In Ladakh you can expect to relinquish luxury and sometimes even electricity when it comes to accommodation, but you will be rewarded with welcoming smiles and killer mountain views. Hotels like The Grand Dragon Ladakh, Ladakh Sarai, Hotel Lasermo, The Druk Ladakh are the finest hotels in Leh, highly recommended though a bit expensive other than these Old Ladakh Guest House, Tak guesthouse and many others are among the decent budget hotels.  For more details you can visit : http://www.lehladakhhotels.com/

Don’t miss: The Druk White Lotus School better known as Rancho’s school from the Aamir Khan movie 3 Idiots. You will get a guide too, who will be a faculty most probably from the school to give you a tour around the campus.

P.S: This isn't the end. I am going to come up with some more exciting and amazing posts of Ladakh. So to be continued...

Tagged: #Leh #Ladakh #Kashmir #ShantiStupa #Gompas #LehPalace #Buddhist 

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