The 'Golden City' of Rajasthan Jaisalmer (Part 1)

By Parth Yadav

YAAR BAHUT PAHAD HO GAYE, ISS BAR REGISTAAN CHALTE HAIN!!


“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.” ~John Muir.

“Of all the trips you take in life, make sure one of them is in a dessert.” ~Author.

“Mad! You are!” said my Mom, uncles, aunties, cousins, friends and basically anybody and everybody who came to know about my plan of travelling to Jaisalmer in the month of ‘June’. Yes! You heard it right, ‘June’ it was! But then as they say, there is a difference in being a tourist and being a traveler. I, fortunately or unfortunately fall in the latter category. Hence, the less-mainstream the trip, the better it is. And keeping this motto in mind I alongwith a friend booked our tickets for DLI-JSM Express. A week later we were at Old Delhi Railway Station boarding the train. There are a couple of trains directly from Delhi to Jaisalmer, tickets of which are generally available. For those travelling by Air, there are no direct flights from Delhi to Jaisalmer. Nearest airport is that of Jodhpur, from where one can take a train/bus/cab to Jaisalmer. There aren’t even any direct bus services from Delhi to Jaisalmer. One has to change the bus either from Jaipur or from Bikaner, whichever seems feasible. Author’s Advice: Travelling by train is a really good option. Though, the train takes almost 17 hours to reach Jaisalmer, yet, one gets to travel across most of the Rajasthan and the train (no matter how late it gets in between!), generally reaches the concluding station on time or as in our case, before time!  

On the way, one can actually feel Jaisalmer coming closer as the trees start turning into shrubs and bushes and the soil into sand. Finally, the next morning at around 11:30, we reached Jaisalmer. And you realize you’re gonna have an epic trip, the moment you touch the Jaisalmer Railway Station. Believe me! I haven’t seen a railway station more beautiful and cleaner than this one. Kuddos to the Station Incharge and the railway authorities, even other Indian cities should take a cue from this Railway Station!

We were already in talks with the Manager of one, Hotel Payal, for our stay and hence he had already sent a cab to pick us up from the station. Being a travelers’ delight, Jaisalmer has plenty of hotels and resorts suiting all pocket sizes. 

Author’s Advice:  Do pre-book a hotel in case you’re planning to travel during the peak tourist season of September-February, because during this time Jaisalmer takes the shape of a Mini-Europe, with almost every third person you get to meet, being a European! And hence hotel prices shoot upto triple the actual cost of the room. 

After almost 17 hours of non-stop train journey, one does feel tired and exhausted, hence the moment we checked in our hotel, we took a shower, had lunch and dozed off! Jaisalmer is a small town which can mostly be covered on foot, hence a proper rest to your feet is kind-of required. By the time we got up, it was already late and hence most of the markets were about to close. We hurriedly went to the nearest restaurant, had food and started our next big search… A THEKA! :P Getting the shock of our lives, we got to know that the liquor shops in Jaisalmer closes at sharp 8 PM! Now what? Authors Advice:  You can still get it but in an illegal manner till 10 p.m :P  

Next morning, as per the itinerary we made in consultation with the Hotel Manager and affcourse, Google, we started off on foot for our first destination… the huge and magnificent JAISALMER FORT! Built in 1156 AD by the Rajput ruler Rawal Jaisal, from whom it derives its name, Jaisalmer Fort is one of the largest fortifications in the world. It is a World Heritage Site. The Fort stands amidst the sandy expanse of the great Thar Desert, on Trikuta Hill, and has been the scene of many battles. Its massive yellow sandstone walls are a tawny lion colour during the day, fading to honey-gold as the sun sets, thereby camouflaging the Fort in the yellow desert. For this reason, it is also known as the Sonar Quila or Golden Fort. The Fort is located in the very heart of the city, and is one of the most notable monuments in the locality. The most interesting fact about the Fort is that initially the entire city of Jaisalmer was located inside the Fort only. Or in other words, the Fort was the Jaisalmer City! It is with time and growing population, that people started making houses and markets outside the Fort. On visiting the Fort, you will actually feel that the Fort is a city/town in itself. 

The Fort is all about the beautiful and massive Rajput architecture. Inside the Fort Muesum, you get to see massive weaponry, from swords, which in themselves weigh 30-40 kilograms each, to all sorts of guns and air pistols used in those days. There were guns, so huge, that 2 men were required to operate a single gun! 

To be continued........

About Parth:

Currently pursuing his bachelors from National Law University, Lucknow is a bibliophile and an avid fiction lover. Travelling is not just his hobby but his passion. He likes to explore the unexplored and does things which aren't mainstream. Mountains, "supposedly" haunted destinations and bike trips are what attracts him the most. A certified trekker by the Youth Hostel Association of India, he dreams to cover the Himalayas on his bike someday!

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Kuldhara – The Deserted Village of the Desert

A few years back, after spending an exquisite night under the star lit sky of the Sam Dunes, Rajasthan, we were sailing down the desert highways of at a steady speed of 140 Kms/hr when our driver decided to take a turn right on a deserted by road unannounced. Given that Jaisalmer was still a few Kms away we were surprised to say the least. Our driver only replied with a mischievous smile that the detour would be worth it. I suppose we should have been alarmed but we could smell adventure already. A short drive away on a few bumpy dirt roads we reached a “parking lot” and it was grandiosely announced that we had reached the deserted desert village of Kuldhara by what looked like the lone occupant of this village – a old man with grey beard clad in white. Clichéd and eerie in itself. 

So what was special about this place? It was deserted and in ruins. Again, what’s so special about that? Well as the old man was more than happy to dramatically explain, legend has it the entire village along with a few more in this locality decided to abandon their houses and cleared out without a trace overnight, a few centuries ago. Till date no one has any clue how they managed to completely disappear overnight or where they went to settle down. According to the old man, the prime minister of the kingdom was an incredible mix of evil and powerful and besides every other corrupt act, was coercing the entire village to marry the beautiful daughter of the village head by force. The villagers decided to protect the lady and preferred to stealthily move out in the cover of the night than to give in to the wishes of this man. But, what is more interesting is, before leaving, they put a curse on the village that no man will be able to inhabit the village ever again and that is how an entire village with perfectly good houses still lies crumpling away – barren, dissolate and unoccupied. People who tried to stay in this village were apparently chased away by paranormal activities – something not too hard to imagine – an isolated village in ruins in the middle of nowhere with a cursed history no less – not the best place to spend the night.

We walked into the village to a lone temple standing amongst ruins and found some workers busy restoring the temple and painting away cheerfully. Finally something about the place that seemed ordinary and normal. Further exploration of the place took us to the roof of the temple from where the panoramic view of the village in ruins was breath-taking. A few scattered bushes only added to its rustic feel.  From above we could see that some other houses were in the process of being restored. We stayed on the roof taking in the sight for quite some time and then followed the old man through the ruins of what used to be houses of the occupants of the village with some of the walls still standing and still patterned with paint. Quiet signs lay scattered around to help your imagination that this village was in fact a thriving one at some point of time. Finally, after a thorough good examination of the place that tool longer than it should have, we rode back to Jaisalmer excited with the new find with a gloating driver for company.

A ride through the desert roads with the windows down is one of my best memories. Add to that the inky sky covered with millions and millions of stars, it is hands down one of the best places to be. And when you are there, look for Kuldhara – the locals will be more than happy to direct you towards it – for an eerie, out of place experience in a deserted and forlorn village even in the middle of the day.  Even the bravest of the brave will surely feel a twinge of tiny panic at some point or the other.

Also, now it is completely restored and a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India. Definitely well worth the detour.

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A Walk Through History : Forts Revealing The Grandeur Of Rajasthan

Rajasthan is famous all over the world for its stunning forts that have been gloriously standing since decades in this princely state. They are the perfect example of the architectural heritage of Rajasthan. The reminders of the rich history of this eternal land are one of the major attractions of the state as well our country. These forts narrate the stories of yesteryears’ glamour, success and failures through their long muteness.

Here is a list of the forts that add to the royalty of Rajasthan-

 Chittorgarh Fort, Chittor

Chittorgarh Fort is one of the largest forts in India and probably the grandest in the state of Rajasthan. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It is stated that the fort was constructed by the Mauryans during the 7th century AD and hence derives its name after the Mauryan ruler, Chitrangada Mori, as inscribed on coins of the period. Historical records show Chittorgarh fort as the capital of Mewar for 834 years.

The fort precinct with an evocative history is studded with a series of historical palaces, gates, temples and two prominent commemoration towers. These monumental ruins have inspired the imagination of tourists and writers for centuries.

The fort represents the quintessence of tribute to the nationalism, courage, medieval chivalry and sacrifice exhibited by the Mewar rulers for centuries.

How To Reach:

By Road - NH8 connects Jaipur and Delhi to NH79 at Ajmer, along which Chittor is a 3.5 hr drive away via Nasirabad and Bhilwara.

By Train - Chittorgarh Station is linked to Delhi by the Nizamuddin-Udaipur Express and to Jaipur by the Mewar Express.

 Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur

Mehrangarh Fort was built around 1460 by Rao Jodha, and the fort is situated 120 metres (400 ft) above the city and is enclosed by imposing thick walls. Inside its boundaries, there are several palaces known for their intricate carvings and expansive courtyards.

The museum in the Mehrangarh fort is one of the well-stocked museums in Rajasthan. In one section of the fort museum, there is a selection of old royal palanquins, including the elaborate domed gilt Mahadol palanquin which was won in a battle from the Governor of Gujarat in 1730.

How To Reach:

By Road - Travelers from Delhi should turn off NH8 onto NH11 at Beawar.

By Train - Jodhpur Junction is connected by Mandore and Intercity expresses from Old Delhi; and by Rajasthan Sampark Kranti from Sarai Rohilla, which runs on alternate days. Suryanagari Express from Bandra, Mumbai, is the best option via Ahmedabad and it runs on alternate days; also Ranakpur Express from Bandra via Ahmedabad and Surat and the Howrah-Jaipur Express.

http://indiatrotters.blogspot.in/2015/07/jodhpur-and-amazing-blues.html

Kumbhalgarh Fort, Udaipur

Kumbhalgarh Fort is on the westerly range of Aravalli Hills, in the Rajsamand District of Rajasthan. It is another UNESCO World Heritage Site included in Hill Forts of Rajasthan. Built during the course of the 15th century by Rana Kumbha and enlarged through the 19th century, Kumbhalgarh is also the birthplace of Maharana Pratap, the great king and warrior of Mewar.

The fort is the second largest wall in the world after the Great Wall of China and the second largest fort in Rajasthan after Chittorgarh Fort.

How To Reach:

By Road – Kumbhalgarh is situated 82 km northwest of Udaipur.  Rajasthan State Transport buses from Udaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Ajmer, Jaipur and Delhi are available.

Jaisalmer Fort, Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer Fort was built in 1156 AD by the Rajput ruler Rawal Jaisal, from whom it derives its name. The fort stands amidst the sandy expanse of the great Thar Desert, on Trikuta Hill, and has been the scene of many battles. Its massive yellow sandstone walls are a tawny lion colour during the day, fading to honey-gold as the sun sets, thereby camouflaging the fort in the yellow desert. For this reason, it is also known as the Sonar Quila or Golden Fort.

In medieval times, Jaisalmer’s entire population lived within the fort and even now, thousands of people reside here, making it India’s only living fort.

How To Reach:

By Road - Jaisalmer is at the far western end of India, tucked into the hip of Rajasthan. Though it is just a few degrees off the same latitude as Jaipur, you have to arch up to Bikaner or way down to Jodhpur to get here from the state capital.

By Train - Jaisalmer Station is well-connected to Delhi by the Delhi-Jaisalmer Express, which starts from Old Delhi Railway Station. Mumbai offers connections up to Jodhpur via Ahmedabad. From Jodhpur, there’s the Jodhpur-Jaisalmer Express.

http://indiatrotters.blogspot.in/2015/07/the-desert-dairies-jaisalmer-real.html

      Neemrana Fort Palace, Alwar

Built from 1464 AD, Neemrana Fort-Palace is located on a high hillock and commands magnificent views of the surrounding beauty. It is among India's oldest heritage resort hotels, as it was created in 1986. Its name derives from a valiant local chieftain named Nimola Meo. The Chauhan capital was shifted from Mandhan (near Alwar) to Neemrana when the fort was established by Raja Dup Raj in 1467.

This has become a favourite weekend gateway for Delhi folks.

How To Reach:

By Road – Neemrana Fort Palace is 120 kms from New Delhi, via NH8. It is on the Delhi- Jaipur Highway.

 Jaigarh Fort, Jaipur

Jaigarh Fort, also known as Victory Fort, is situated on the promontory called the Cheel ka Teela (Hill of Eagles) of the Aravalli range. The fort was built by Jai Singh II in 1726 to protect the Amber Fort and its palace complex and was named after him. The highlights here are the two silver water containers, the largest in the world, mentioned in the Guinness Book of World Records. Sawai Madho Singh II took along these containers, after filling them with Ganga water, on a trip abroad to avoid using ‘foreign water’. The fort features a cannon named "Jaivana", which was manufactured in the fort precincts and was then the world's largest cannon on wheels.

How To Reach:

By Road - NH8 links Jaipur to Delhi via Shahpura and Dharuhera, and to Mumbai via Ajmer, Udaipur, Ahmedabad, Baroda, Bharuch, Pardi, Talasari and Manor. RSRTC operates deluxe coaches from Bikaner House in Delhi near Pandara Road. Excellent bus connections are also available from Jaipur’s Sindhi Camp Central Bus Terminal to other destinations in Rajasthan and beyond.

By Train - Jaipur Station well connected to Delhi by Ajmer Shatabdi and Delhi-Jaipur Express, to Mumbai by the Bombay Central-Jaipur and Aravalli expresses, and to Kolkata by the Howrah-Jaipur Express.

Amer Fort, Jaipur

Amer Fort is known for its artistic Hindu style elements. With its large ramparts and series of gates and cobbled paths, the fort overlooks Maota Lake. The town of Amer was originally built by Meenas, and later it was ruled by Raja Man Singh, who built the fort.

The aesthetic ambiance of the palace is seen within its walls. Constructed of red sandstone and marble, the attractive, opulent palace is laid out on four levels, each with a courtyard. It consists of the Diwan-e-Aam, or "Hall of Public Audience", the Diwan-e-Khas, or "Hall of Private Audience", the Sheesh Mahal (mirror palace), or Jai Mandir, and the Sukh Niwas where a cool climate is artificially created by winds that blow over a water cascade within the palace. Hence, the Amer Fort is also popularly known as the Amer Palace.

How To Reach: Same As Jaigarh Fort. The two forts are located on the Cheel ka Teela (Hill of Eagles) of the same Aravalli range of hills. The palace and Jaigarh Fort are considered one complex, as the two are connected by a subterranean passage.

Sajjangarh Fort, Udaipur

 Sajjangarh Fort, also known as the Monsoon Palace, is a hilltop palatial residence in the city of Udaipur, overlooking the Fateh Sagar Lake. It is named ‘Sajjangarh’ after Maharana Sajjan Singh of the Mewar Dynasty, who built it in 1884. The palace offers a panoramic view of the city's lakes, palaces and surrounding countryside. It was built chiefly to watch the monsoon clouds; hence, appropriately, it is popularly known as Monsoon Palace.

High on the Aravalli Hills, the Palace is illuminated in the evenings, giving a golden orange glow.

How To Reach:

By Road - Udaipur is on NH8 which links Delhi to Mumbai via Jaipur and Ahmedabad. It is a 9hr drive from Jaipur, a 14hr drive from Delhi and a 17 hr drive from Mumbai. Halt for the night at Ajmer if driving down from Delhi, and at Ahmedabad if coming from Mumbai.

By Train - Udaipur Station has speedier connections with Delhi by Chetak Express from Sarai Rohilla, and Mewar Express from Nizamuddin Station. The Lake City Express and Mewar Express are excellent options from Jaipur. Good connections from Ahmedabad as well as Mumbai are also available.

Taragarh Fort, Bundi

Taragarh Fort or 'Star Fort' is the most impressive structure of city of Bundi. A rather ramshackle fort, with its overgrown vegetation, it is located 39 km from Kota. It was constructed in 1354 upon a steep hillside. There are three gateways to the fort, well known as Lakshmi Pol, Phuta Darwaza and Gagudi ki Phatak. Most parts of these impressive gateways are now in ruins. During its heyday, Taragarh Fort was renowned for its tunnels crisscrossing the entire hillside. However, these tunnels are now inaccessible for want of proper maps.

The largest of its battlements is the 16th century bastion known as the Bhim Burj, on which was once mounted a particularly large cannon called Garbh Gunjam, or 'Thunder from the Womb'.

The fort also has Miran Saheb ki Dargah. He was the governor of the fort and laid down his life in an encounter.

The fort offers a panoramic view of the city of Bundi situated in Nagpahari of Aravalli ranges.

How To Reach:

By Road – Bundi is around 490 km from Delhi. Bundi is located on NH12 between Jaipur and Kota. The road conditions vary with rains and disrepair. There are frequent buses from Kota to Bundi and the journey by bus takes about an hour. A few buses run daily from Jaipur too and the trip takes 7-8 hrs.

By Train - Nearest railhead is Kota Junction, on the Delhi-Mumbai rail route.

Ranthambore Fort, Ranthambore

Ranthambore Fort is situated within the Ranthambore National Park, near the town of Sawai Madhopur, the park being the former hunting grounds of the Maharajahs of Jaipur until the time of India's Independence. The fort is known for the glory and valor of Hammir dev of the Chauhan dynasty.

How To Reach:

By Road - You can cover the 375 km distance between Delhi and Ranthambhore in about 8-10 hours. The roads are good and the road trip in itself is a pleasure. You can plan your route through Sariska Tiger Reserve as well.

http://indiatrotters.blogspot.in/2013/12/weekend-trip-ranthambhore-fromdelhi-how.html

             

PS- For a detailed description on Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Ranthambore, follow the exclusive posts on those places. 

Fact-Sources: Wikipedia.

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Jodhpur and the amazing blues....

Being a place of princely palaces, magnificent forts as well as age old temples, this city of Rajasthan is among the famous tourist destinations in the state as well as India. If you like historical places and forts and temples, Jodhpur will surely not disappoint you. As you would walk the narrow lanes of Jodhpur, all you get to see are lovely colorful shops with typical rajasthani stuffs, that would make you pause and take a look at them. 

A day is enough to explore Jodhpur, if you have properly chalked out plans. Reach Jodhpur early morning around 5, check in to some hotel near the fort. There are several decent cheap hotel, with rooms starting from Rs.400. Take your time to fresh'n up, and head out for breakfast in any of the roof-top cafes, that comes on the way to the Fort. I would suggest Namaste Cafe, with serves delicious English Breakfast, and also gives the most beautiful view of the majestic fort on one side, and the painted blue city on the other side. 

Take an auto and reach the fort, it will drop you at the fort gate. Built in 1459, Mehrangarh Fort indeed gives you an idea of Rajput taste. Folk music will welcome you inside the fort. If you are looking for some adventure in a historical place, then Zip tour is a must for you. This amazing aerial adventure will give you the most stunning views of the fort, and its not much expensive. (Rs.1500 for Indians, and Rs.1800 for foreigners). It will take nearly 2 and a half hours to see the fort, and the museum inside.

Next is the Mandor Gardens, and the Rajput temple inside. 

Jodhpur has some really good restaurants, so for lunch you can choose either traditional rajasthani food, or continental cuisine. I would suggest you to try eating at On The Rocks if you are a meat-lover! And if you don't mind spending, the hertige hotels are ofcourse there to offer you the best :)

After lunch, you can do a quick visit to Umaid Bhavan. And then the Clock Tower, which is in the main market, so some shopping will complete your trip. Am sure you would like to take back souvenirs, though you would have made some lovely memories to remember your Jodhpur trip.

And take a late night bus, And may head towards Jaisalmer...

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The Desert Dairies: Jaisalmer

The Desert Dairies: Jaisalmer

The real beauty of Rajasthan indeed lies in the deserts, and Jaisalmer would be a treat for you, and it’s aptly named as "The Golden city", for its truly that royal to look at!

9 Things that you must do when in Jaisalmer:

1. Experience Dune Bashing and Offroading

 If you are still thinking, dune bashing is a popular adventure sports of the Gulfs and the Arabs, you should think again! Thar Desert areas near Jaisalmer are also considered as ideal locations for dune bashing and off-roading as well. The Sam Sand Dunes are thronged by thousands of adventure junkies who have a yearning for these two sports and make it part of their Jaisalmer trip.

2. Camel ride and desert safari

You miss a big chunk of the fun that can be experienced in  Jaisalmer  if you do not go for the thrilling desert safari. The biggest attraction and the closest place to the Thar Desert, Sam is widely stretched without any vegetation. You can also enjoy the camel hump rides in the desert, and then experience the awesomeness of the sunset, that paints the sky in amazing hues.

And spending a night in the camp is too good to be put into words. You have to be there to experience it.

The camel ride would cost you around Rs.300 per person for a nearly 2 hours ride, through the desert to the sunset point.

The cost of Camping (including dinner and breakfast) is Rs. 1500 per person.

3. Patwan-o ki haveli

The Patwon ki Haveli is considered to be one of the most important Havelis of Jaisalmer because of two important things: it was the first Haveli to be ever built in Jaisalmer and it is a cluster of 5 different havelis making it one of the biggest Havelis. The other name given to this Haveli is the “mansion of brocade merchants” because the Patwa family used to deal in gold and silver.

Currently, the Haveli is taken care of by the Rajasthan government. The gateways and arches of this Haveli are also masterpieces. The entire Haveli is made of yellow sandstone and the main gateway of this Haveli is brown.

 And if you are looking for shopping, then this is the place to be!

4. Salim Singh ki Haveli

This Haveli is slightly different from the other Havelis in terms of art and sculpture. The roof of this Haveli has been built in the form of a peacock. At the entrance of the Haveli, there are tuckers made of sand stones guarding the haveli.

This haveli has 38 balconies and each balcony has its own artistry. The name given to this Haveli is Jahaz mahal because of the front of the haveli resembling ship stern. It’s a perfect example of the taste of the Rajputs.

5.  Gadsisar Lake

Gadsisar Lake is one of the most visited tourist destinations in Jaisalmer. Leaving the crowd away, there is Gadsisar lake, which is the symbol of peace and prosperity. It was once a water reservoir to the whole of Rajasthan.

The major tourist attraction of the Gadsisar Lake is the lake surrounding temples and migratory birds. If you are lucky enough you might just be able to spot a migratory bird. There are a number of temples around it making it a famous pilgrimage spot.

6. Bhaang-and a Little more!!!

well, I don't know about any other place, but Jaisalmer has a legalized Bhaag store, where you get Bhaang laddoos and lassi. So, next time when you are in Jaisalmer, you don't need a holi-diwali excuse, but get a bit trippy, no one is going to stop you!!!

7. Kat-Katha, The puppet's tales

Jaisalmer has a lane full of the colourful Rajasthani puppets, and the stories of the puppet shows ranges from tales of history, to Bollywood stories. And of course, you can carry one couple back as souvenir.

8. The Jaisalmer Fort

Last but not the least, the main attraction of Jaisalmer is the fort, famously known as "Sonar kella" (The Golden Fort).

A five-storied structure constructed in a traditional Rajasthani method. The rich heritage of the Jaisalmer fort can be seen portrayed in the novel written by Satyajit Ray which was later turned into a movie. The architectural pattern this fort is divided into three layers of walls. The outside layer is made up of solid stone blocks. The forts of Rajasthan are very intricate in nature.

The second layer goes around the fort. The inward partition is the third layer which was used by Rajput warriors to hurl boiling water, oil, blocks of rocks on the enemies. This enigmatic structure is sure to keep your eyes wide open.

9. If you are a BONG, then here you go!!!! 

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