Kuldhara – The Deserted Village of the Desert

A few years back, after spending an exquisite night under the star lit sky of the Sam Dunes, Rajasthan, we were sailing down the desert highways of at a steady speed of 140 Kms/hr when our driver decided to take a turn right on a deserted by road unannounced. Given that Jaisalmer was still a few Kms away we were surprised to say the least. Our driver only replied with a mischievous smile that the detour would be worth it. I suppose we should have been alarmed but we could smell adventure already. A short drive away on a few bumpy dirt roads we reached a “parking lot” and it was grandiosely announced that we had reached the deserted desert village of Kuldhara by what looked like the lone occupant of this village – a old man with grey beard clad in white. Clichéd and eerie in itself. 

So what was special about this place? It was deserted and in ruins. Again, what’s so special about that? Well as the old man was more than happy to dramatically explain, legend has it the entire village along with a few more in this locality decided to abandon their houses and cleared out without a trace overnight, a few centuries ago. Till date no one has any clue how they managed to completely disappear overnight or where they went to settle down. According to the old man, the prime minister of the kingdom was an incredible mix of evil and powerful and besides every other corrupt act, was coercing the entire village to marry the beautiful daughter of the village head by force. The villagers decided to protect the lady and preferred to stealthily move out in the cover of the night than to give in to the wishes of this man. But, what is more interesting is, before leaving, they put a curse on the village that no man will be able to inhabit the village ever again and that is how an entire village with perfectly good houses still lies crumpling away – barren, dissolate and unoccupied. People who tried to stay in this village were apparently chased away by paranormal activities – something not too hard to imagine – an isolated village in ruins in the middle of nowhere with a cursed history no less – not the best place to spend the night.

We walked into the village to a lone temple standing amongst ruins and found some workers busy restoring the temple and painting away cheerfully. Finally something about the place that seemed ordinary and normal. Further exploration of the place took us to the roof of the temple from where the panoramic view of the village in ruins was breath-taking. A few scattered bushes only added to its rustic feel.  From above we could see that some other houses were in the process of being restored. We stayed on the roof taking in the sight for quite some time and then followed the old man through the ruins of what used to be houses of the occupants of the village with some of the walls still standing and still patterned with paint. Quiet signs lay scattered around to help your imagination that this village was in fact a thriving one at some point of time. Finally, after a thorough good examination of the place that tool longer than it should have, we rode back to Jaisalmer excited with the new find with a gloating driver for company.

A ride through the desert roads with the windows down is one of my best memories. Add to that the inky sky covered with millions and millions of stars, it is hands down one of the best places to be. And when you are there, look for Kuldhara – the locals will be more than happy to direct you towards it – for an eerie, out of place experience in a deserted and forlorn village even in the middle of the day.  Even the bravest of the brave will surely feel a twinge of tiny panic at some point or the other.

Also, now it is completely restored and a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India. Definitely well worth the detour.

Posted in: Rajasthan