A Perfect Day in Pondicherry

It was time for our grand graduation trip and we decided upon the perfectly lazy and idyllic Pondicherry with its cheap alcohol and oodles of freedom without the done to death wildness of Goa. And the trip had quite a few surprises for us.

The first was the 150 Kms road trip from Chennai to Pondicherry – out of sheer laziness we had chosen to splurge on a cab instead of taking the bus to Pondicherry from the Chennai railway station and it was worth every extra paisa. The road was amazing with terrific views on the way. We had started late in the afternoon and it was pitch dark half way through the drive but even the continuous hypnotic glare of the road strips, the steady hum of the engine at a constant high speed, and the rush of the wind, made it one of my personal favourites.

The next day started on a wonderful high note. Armed with very detailed road maps provided by the hotel, we hired scooties (Rs. 200/- for the entire day) early in the morning and made our way to the quaint Le Café – a must visit café and the only cafe on the Promenade Beach of Pondicherry, framing the sight of the waves crashing on the embankment through its old wood worked balcony. The view and a sumptuous English breakfast was a perfect beginning to a perfect day.

After breakfast, a lazy walk along the Promenade studying the various historical landmarks and statues along it, was followed by a very pleasant 13 Km scooty ride to Autryville through mainly shaded by quiet roads.

Auroville is a wonder in itself. Known as an experimental township established on the ideals of Shri Aurobindo Ghose, it was established by Mirra Alfassa, popularly called the Mother. Now, it has a population of about 2500 people from over 50 countries, seeking spiritual transformation. The main attraction here is the Matri Mandir at the very centre of the Auroville at an area called ‘Peace’, and it is called the ‘Soul of the City’. Visitor’s cannot enter the Matri Mandir as it is a place for meditation in isolation and can only be entered by Aurovillians. However, visitors trek the trail from the entrance to Peace to view this large golden sphere gleaming in the sun. It is supposed to create the illusion of emerging out of the earth to symbolise the birth of a new consciousness. 

We were welcomed to the Auroville by the sound of gigantic wind chimes tied high up in the air and a pervading calmness. The environment was infectious and we just sat under the shade of the trees just soaking it all in, hardly talking to each other.  The walk to the MatriMandir was beautiful, through shades artificially made by creepers and on the way is a Banyan tree, a little over a hundred years old, covering a huge expanse of land. The Matri Mandir was indeed a sight to behold, gleaming bright and golden amongst the beautiful gardens. 

Giving Auroville Beach a miss due to the increasing mid day heat, we came back to Pondicherry after a lazy lunch at a café enroute to the city. Later in the day, we rode through the French Quarter to marvel at the quaintness of this part of the city. Every building in this quarter deserves a series of pictures of their own. Reluctantly we finally left to visit the Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar Devasthanam temple, which Temple built before the French came and settled in Pondicherry i.e. before 1666. Here we encountered, besides the colourful and unusual architecture, an elephant who was blessing people by bumping its truck to people bowed head. 

Finally, thoroughly tired, we came back to our now favourite spot, the Promenade Beach, for a terrific sunset on the beach. This 1.2 Km stretch along the sea is closed to traffic during time and loads of people come down here for a peaceful stroll in the evening. We followed suit and saw the War Memorial, the Gandhi Statue and the Light House along the Beach.

Another over-indulgent meal in later, we called it a day and moved on to our next stop, Kodai Kanal – an overnight trip by bus.

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Hyderabad Blues

Hyderabad can be termed as the 'Delhi Of The South'. Well, that's entirely my interpretation, or you may say that's what made me love the city more.

The capital of Telangana, once the capital of the Nizams, still holds the royal charm.

Here's a list of things that you must see and do if you are in Hyderabad:

1. Charminar: Of course, Charminar is the most famous place in the city, and you just can't miss this. Located amidst the most crowded part of the city, the neighbourhood would give you an essence of Delhi's Chandni Chowk. Surrounded by Mecca Masjid, built using bricks from Mecca and Laad Bazaar - a boisterous shopping street, this landmark is laced in history.Built in 1591 by Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah, it was constructed to commemorate the founding of Hyderabad and also to ward of a deadly epidemic that was rampant then in the Golconda region. Graced by 4 minarets soaring almost 50ft in height, it has a mosque and 45 prayer spaces.

2. Golconda Fort: Located in the outskirts of the city, this is one of the best works of architecture from the medieval period. 

The remains of multiple fortification layers, armouries, magazines, mosques, granaries, reservoirs, audience chambers and royal dwellings complement the striking appearance of the fort.

Famous for its acoustics, a unique signalling device that was incorporated in its construction, the structure is known for its palaces, ingenious water supply system and the famous Fateh Rahben, one of the cannons used in the last siege of Golconda by Aurangzeb. The Sound & Light show brings alive the grandeur of one of India’s famous forts.

PS- Bargain with the guides, who would finally settle for Rs 200, but make sure you take a guide because the way they'll explain the history to you, is absolute 'Paisa-Wasool' entertainment.

3. Qutub Shahi Tomb: One of the historical places to visit in Hyderabad is the set of absolutely beautiful Qutub Shahi Tombs ensconced against the lovely backdrop of the picturesque Ibrahim Bagh. These represent the final resting ground of rulers of the founding dynasty of Hyderabad.

The most authentic and majestic display of Persian, Hindu, and Pathan architectural designs dedicated to the seven kings who ruled Golconda for nearly 170years, the rulers themselves built these tombs.

4. Ramoji Film City: You need to keep an entire day for this, and this is nothing less than Disneyland!

Ramoji Film City makes its way to every traveller’s list because of its magical theme around cinema, which is the most common love of every Indian.

The world’s largest integrated film city, spread across 2,000acres ensures that every visitor makes most from the day spent here. Features include well-defined categories of entertainment suited for different ages from Eureka, the performance arena modelled on the lines of royal forts hosting live shows, to getting a tour of a typical film studio, multi-cuisine restaurants, shopping venues, kids’ park, and even a bird park.

5. Hussain Sagar Lake: One of the largest man-made lakes in India, Hussain Sagar Lake has been adorning the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad since 1562.

Adding to its charm is the monolithic statue of the Buddha installed in the heart of the lake. Several facilities around the lake periphery such as boating and water sports, and the neighbourhood Lumbini Park, an amusement park are add-on attractions.

There's a food street next to the Lake, where you can spend a lovely evening, munching some delicious chaats!

6. Paradise Biriyani: When in Hyderabad, you just can't afford to miss Paradise biriyani - well, to be more specific, World's Best Biriyani. The restaurant is 4-storeyed and the locals said that as you climb up, the richness of the biriyani increases! Of course, the ground floor sells biriyani for Rs 80, while the top floor sells for Rs 600, per plate. This biriyani is definitely going to make you drool, and long for more. Don't miss out their kabab platter.

7. Shilparammam: It's the shopper's paradise in Hyderabad. Selling all sorts of antique goods, old wall clocks, and handicrafts, Shilparammam is the place from where you can pick up souvenirs.

After all these, if you have time left, then you can catch a movie at Imax theatre, and enjoy the big screen experience. Just make sure it's a good movie because the tickets will cost much!

Another thing that I personally liked in Hyderabad is this restaurant called 'Dialogue In The Dark', in Inorbit Mall. This restaurant might not serve the best food but will surely give you an experience of a lifetime. Managed and run by blind people, this restaurant serves food in the darkness... yes! You read it right. You have to pay your bill first, and then enter the restaurant, which is pitch-dark and the food is served which you have to guess and eat. We often tend to ignore little things that people born with disabilities has to pass through, and this restaurant just lets you feel that, for an hour. You'll definitely leave the place with a smile.

Hyderabad can be easily covered in 4 days, and if you have more time, then the best option would be to take a bus and make a move towards Bangalore!

Happy Travelling!

Photo Gallery:

SHILPARAMMAM

CHARMINAR

QUTUB SHAHI TOMB

GOLCONDA FORT

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Nagarhole National Park

Nagarahole National Park also known as Rajiv Gandhi National Park is situated around Kodagu district and Mysore district in Karnataka state of South India. It is surrounded by shallow valleys and gentle slopes on all sides.

Nagarhole National Park is said to be the best habitat for Asian elephants and is also a part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve.


River Kabini flows along the southern boundary of the park, and forms a reservoir on the south-eastern edge. The reservoir separates Nagargole sanctuary from Bandipur sanctuary, which is also part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve.   In addition to the vivid and vibrant wildlife range, the Western Ghats and Brahmagiri Hills add to the scenic beauty of the Nagarhole National Park.


Nagarhole is extraordinarily blessed with stunning and rare flora and fauna. One can find a diverse variety of trees and shrubs. Over 250 species of birds have been found in this place. There are observation towers in the park that offer a panoramic view of the undulating expanse, riotously coloured birds, wildlife, and the virgin greenery.

Attractions: 

Fauna: Asiatic elephants, jackal, tiger, panther, gaur, muntjac, sambar, spotted deer, mongoose, civet cat, hyena. Reptiles: king cobra, krait, python, viper, tortoise, monitor lizard, toads etc.

Avian-Fauna: Malabar trogon, malabar pied-hornbill, crested hawk-eagle and crested serpent-eagle, and more.

Wildlife: The Nagarhole National Park shelters a large number of rare and endangered animals. It has a higher population of tigers and one can spot huge elephant herds wandering here.

Safari: The jeep safari takes you around in a predefined forest route. You can spot, observe and discover wildlife in their best natural habitat.
Also you can take the river safari with the jetty. There are high chances of sighting Elephants and different species of birds as well as if you are lucky enough you can even sight tigers.


How to Reach: 

This place can be an ideal weekend getaway from Bangalore or Mysore.

Nagarhole is well connected by road with Bangalore and Mysore. The nearest airport is in Bangalore, and the closet railway station is in Mysore. There are also some trains from Nanjangud to Nagarhole.
Buses ply regularly between Bangalore and Nagarhole, and also between Mysore and Nagarhole. Taxi services are also available from Bangalore to Nagarhole.
Nagarhole National Park is situated around 100 km away from Mysore in Karnataka.
And distance from Bangalore is around 220Km.


Accommodation: 

There are many private as well as government forest resorts. My personal favorite is Kabini River Lodge because of their wonderful services towards guests.


Best Time to Visit: 

November to February

Now let me take you on a journey of this National Park through some amazing photographs. 

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Meghalaya: Truly the Abode of the Clouds

By Aritra Majumdar

Travelling to the North-east was always on the card. So it was with great enthusiasm that we landed at the Guwahati Airport on a bright April morning for our trip to Meghalaya. 

After spending the first night at Kaziranga we started for Meghalaya. The road from Kaziranga to Shillong was an idealistic road-trip - good road, perfect sunshine, roadside dhabas and some or the other mountain forming a perfect backdrop. The hairpin bends of the Shillong roads welcomed us to Meghalaya – the abode of clouds! The meandering roads, the small villages, the little kids along the highway and the small chapels in between the villages set the perfect tone for the coming days.

That day we reached Bara-Pani and what a beauty it was! Known as Lake Umiam (which is a man-made reservoir), nestled amidst the mountains, 15 Kms from Shillong , it serves as the biggest source of water for the mountain-dwellers. The water was as clear as crystal, and the last rays of the sun reflecting on the water turned it to liquid Gold. We spent the night in a hotel in a small village near the lake with a panaromic view of the lake and the surrounding trees. The next morning we woke up early to enjoy a stroll on the banks of the lake. The experience is inexplicable – incredible view, chirping birds, wayward winds swaying the bigger trees and the showering the lake with flowers! We also noticed that the people/government is extremely dedicated to cleanliness-small boats cleaning the lake to maintain its beauty.

Same day we travelled to Shillong and it was everything I imagined it to be and more! Its people-food-love formula and its cultural mix of colonial past and simple folk culture of the hills of Garo -Khasi- Jaintia is enchanting. Earlier readings of Rabindranath Tagore’s “Shesher Kobita” had helped me to visualise the romantic aspects of the mountains, its warmth, its soft sunshine, the colourful not-so-known flowers along the paths and simplicity of the mountain folks. And the place certainly didn’t disappoint. However, the Police Bazaar, the heart of Shillong the market place, was extremely overcrowded, and unfortunately most hotels are near to it. It takes away the peace, quiet and beauty of the place. Fortunately we moved to a hotel near Hyderi Park and the calm and quietness of the mountains were restored.

Next day we hopped from the Hyderi Park to the Butterfly Museum (Museum of Entomology) and drove 65 Kms to Mawsynram – reportedly the wettest place on earth. This place also has a cave where travellers can see stalactites. The drive through the Khasi Hills was again beautiful and was worth in millions of hot momos!

Another day and another breathtakingly picturesque road later we reached Cherrapunji.  The journey to Cherapunji was by far the most enjoyable – cliffs, wild flowers, small villages and chapels led the way. Here, the trek to the Living Root Bridge at Cherrapunji was worth the tiredness and effort. The view of the meandering river under the root bridge shaded by a dense canopy of huge trees was exquisite. After a lunch break at a quiet Garo village called Mawlynnong (Asia’s cleanest village) we experienced the first spell of shower! A few scattered viewing point such as the seven sister falls, etc took up the rest of the day and we retired at the Cherrapunji Resort - run by the local women, a stay at this resort is highly advisable. It was a warm, homely and comfortable stay.

Local sightseeing took up the next day. The Nohkhalikai Falls – India’s tallest plunge waterfall (1115 Feet), Ka Khoh Ramhah, and the double decker living root bridge are some of the places. Every nature lover should do nothing and just roam around Cherapunji enjoying the serenity in the lap of the nature.

The next day was scheduled for Dwaki - India’s international border with Bangladesh, 96 Kms from Shillong. Here, there is a small village market where the two countries meet (under the Border Security Force survelliance) and lastly the River! Called the Umngot, it is the natural boundary between Jaintia Hills and Khasi Hills and the water is so clear that it looks like the boats are flying in the air instead of floating on water! The local fish, Chittol here is delicious and this place affords a view of a vast expanse of Banglasdesh – which was a very personal experience for me, given my ancestral roots lie on that side of the border.

From there, it was back to Guwahati for us via Shillong Peak – from where entire Shillong can be observed, and the Don Bosco Museum with its extensive study on the people of north eastern states, their food, language, tribes, music and works of arts.

The magnificent mountains, hectic roadtrips, picturesque views, lazy afternoons and quiet Sunday mass is what will always remain with me from this trip. The breath-taking Meghalaya and its surrounding states indeed reflect diversity of an Incredible India.

About Aritra:

This guy is a true blue Bong, passionate about literature, art, food, music, photography and what not. An avid traveller from a young age, if he is not busy travelling, he is definitely busy meticulously planning a trip months ahead – he swears that is how he manages to disappear about half a dozen times each year in spite of his tremendous work load.

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Lucknow's Chowk: Every Non-Vegetarian Food Lover's Wonderland!

By Abhidip Sengupta

I studied in Lucknow and it was the last week of my college life.  We were discussing what we will miss the most after we pass out from law school. People were saying a lot of things - friends, hostel life, parties and what not, but I could only think of that humongous degchi (cooking pot) full of Biriyani you see at Idrish in Chowk and the fragrant hypnotising smoke which comes out from the degchi and mixes with evening fog of Old Lucknow. Indeed heavenly. Indeed that is the thing I definitely miss the most now.

It was almost a weekly affair for us (almost daily during the month of Ramzan) to go to Chowk  - the focus point of old Lucknow traditions - and actively partake in the culinary experiences. Simply put, we used to go to Chowk, very frequently and ate like animals, till we could not walk.

In last five years I went to Chowk many times, probably a lot more than many Lucknowites ever has. And met a lot of people there, made a lot of friends there. So I feel, somewhat I have gained a right to write about my most favourite food destination.

Whenever I took people to Chowk , I followed a distinct plan , a sort of a circuit or a map following it one can obtain the complete culinary experience of Lucknow Chowk , which does not only involve eating.

So here is the step by step plan which I have followed for half a decade:

Tiwari ji’s Bhang Thandai: The journey starts from Kotwali (in Chowk), this is a very busy junction with places of interest all around you. Various famous mithai shops like Shree, (famous for lassi) , Radhey Lal Parampara etc are there, but those places are not essential to the tour which I prefer. Instead I will suggest Tiwari Ji’s Bhang Thandai. You will find it right beside the starting point of ‘phul wali gali’ in Kotwali. Start your tour with a glass of ‘light’ bhang thandai. Yes, ‘light’. Don’t try to be a hero and go for the ‘strong’ glass, if you are not that much of seasoned bhang enthusiast. Trust me , you will want your wits around  when you would have to stop at different places to eat so many lovely things. Drink a light one, get a light buzz. Most importantly it will make you very hungry  and will make you appreciate food like never before. 

Malai Makkhan: By far one of the best desserts I have ever tasted in my life has to be Malai Makkhan . You can get them near the Gol Darwaza at chowk , just beside the bhang thandai shop.  This frothy, fluffy , amazing rather sinful dessert is probably (according to me) Lucknow’s best dessert. You get it only after October and till March. It’s a seasonal dessert, as the name suggests it is made from malai and apparently they need the cold dewy air for the condensation of the malai and they serve it with crushed pistachios and silver leaves (chandi ka warq) , by adding saffron its gets a bit of yellowish tinge. This sweet , beautiful, foamy dessert is so smooth that as soon as you put it inside your mouth it melts and vanishes and only leaves behind a heavenly taste. Hence the name rightly describes ‘Malai Makkhan’. You can get them in some shops , but I think buying it from the vendors or “malai makkhan walas’ near the Gol Darwaza will definitely not disappoint you.  And it will enhance the effect of the bhang thandai in a very positive way. You will become a happy - hungry person roaming around a locality that provides you with mind boggling food.   What else do you want from this unjust world?!

Biriyani at Idrish: Quintessence of the famous Lucknow Biriyani is this place called Idrish. If you are into superficial things like ambience and cleanliness , well you can skip  the place but if you are faithfully in love with Biryani , it is a sacrilege if you don’t go to this place. Mutton Biriyani at Idrish will always be amazing. No doubt about that. It is situated in a place called Patanala at Chowk only.  Nothing can compete with Idrish’s Biriyani on a cold evening in Lucknow. I am pretty sure, you will treat Biriyanis from other places as second class citizens once you taste Idrish. Each and every grain of rice is perfectly cooked ,  meat pieces will not let you complain and the entire place (though a bit untidy) smells like heaven. A must go for Biryani lovers throughout the world.

Now from Patanala, walk till Akbari Gate , it will help you digest a bit, don’t forget you have to complete the circuit and a lot more to eat.  Smoke couple of cigarettes or drink a bottle of Cola if you have to, but make sure you have room in your tummy.

Raheem at Akbari Gate: My favourite place in Lucknow. The first time I tasted their pasanda , I literally cried. I thanked the almighty for providing me with a tongue so that I can taste such a dish. My god!  Pasanda at Raheem is indeed paradise served on a plate. Marinated beef cooked in charcoal smoke. I am literally drooling right now as I type. The perfect balance of spices, the perfect tenderness of the meat, the smoky texture will enthral you. Another must eat. 

They also make the best Nahari , a curry made of slow cooked meat. With Nahari you can eat Kulcha and Sheermal. Sheermal is a saffron flavoured a bit sweet type of flat bread. A very popular meal during the holy month of Ramzan, especially during sehri (the meal before the dawn). They have Biriyani also which is excellent , probably not as good as Idrish’s , but better than 95% of all the Biriyani you may have eaten from all the different places.

Azhar Bhai ka Paan: Right opposite Raheem , you will find a shop which rightly says : ‘Lucknow Ki Shaan, Azhar Bhai Ka Paan’ . You will find all the nazakat (delicacy) , nafasat (sophistication) and tehzeeb (culture) dripping from the paans served by Azhar Bhai. You will find various types of paan there like, pistai paan, badami paan, zafrani paan, saunfiya paan, pethe ka paan, aonle ka paan, begum pasand, wajid ali shah ki shahi gillauri, haazme ka paan, seene me dard ka paan, khattha meetha paan, shahi meetha paan, palang tod paan…YES you read it right.. PALANG TOD PAAN, apparently unleashes the beast within you, never had the guts to try this flavour though.

Buy a paan from there, keep it with you , (trust me you will need it later) don’t eat as soon as you get it, don’t forget that you have to eat more, you don’t want to send wrong signals to your taste buds, as if its over. Because its not.

Tunday Kababi: From Akbari Gate you take phool wali gali and you will reach bang infront of Tunday Kababi. World famous Galawati Kababs with Paratha is beyond comparison. The soft melt- in-mouth kababs with ulte tawe ki parathas are a different league altogether. Apparently minced meat is mixed with papaya , which contains an enzyme called Papain , decomposes the meat and makes it so tender and soft that it melts in your mouth. One of the most famous places in Lucknow, probably the most famous dish in Lucknow, You will be cheating yourself if you don’t go there.

Walk straight on the phool wali gali towards Kotwali by that time you will be extremely full and tremendously happy and somewhat high , because the bhang thandai would have definitely kicked in.

No. Its not over so soon!

Habshi Halwa: Next stop is a mithai shop which is a few steps away from Tunday, on Phool wali gali  towards Gol Darwaza ,on your left side. I don’t know the name of the shop or the shopkeeper , but whenever I meet that guy he gives me the best smile and the best Habshi Halwa.  This sweet is made up with many nutritious ingredients put together such as milk, desi ghee, cashew, nuts, almonds, clove, kewda, wheat flour . Don’t know why its called ‘Habshi Halwa’ . Habshi means African, I think maybe it has so many nutritious ingredients, eating it will make you as strong as a well-built African man. Or I don’t want to sound racist, but maybe because the colour of the mithai is dark brown.

Furqan Bhai’s Itr Shop: I have a friend in Chowk , his name is Furqan bhai, his shop is situated on phool wali gali only. If you walk from Tunday to Gol Darwaza it will be on your right hand side. For us it’s Furqan Bhai’s dukaan and we never bothered to know the name. It is a shop which sells finest itrs (scents) of Lucknow. You can spot the shop , by seeing a lot of hookahs are kept outside it and very polite, young chap who is always smiling , sitting at the counter. After so much of food and walk you would love to sit and smell the varieties of itr, it will instantly make you feel relaxed , the fragrances are so nice it will make you appreciate the finer things in life. And if you love the fragrances you can buy them also. He will put drops of different fragrances on your arm to smell and taste the product while he tells you the different names of the fragrances is a trip on its own. Names like, Gulfam, Noor –e- Ilahi, Shaam-e –Awadh , Madhosh will make you fall in love with them instantly.

I am pretty sure, You will definitely be in a trance by now. Its Natural. Walk straight towards Gol Darwaza and you will reach where you have started from. You can have another round of Bhang Thandai, if you want and you can make it ‘strong’ also. Because you don’t need to worry about a single thing. You will be happy. Satisfied to the core of your heart. Because, they meant it when they said: “Muskuraiye ke aap Lucknow mein hain”

P.S. Don’t forget about the Azhar Bhai’s Paan you bought. Have it then, it will be the perfect time.

About Abhidip:

This ever smiling young lawyer found roaming the corridors of the High Court at Calcutta is a free soul who lives for his love for travelling. And the only thing that is greater than his love for travelling is his passion for food. Besides being an amazing cook, he is like a human food wikipedia! He daydreams of becoming an amazing food critique some day that will require him to travel all over the world. 

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