Friday, August 7, 2015

Of Unspoilt Snow, Steep Treks and Surviving Negative Temperatures: A True Manali Trance

By  Parth Yadav ....


Being an adventure lover to the core, I don’t believe in going main stream. So, when in peak summer month of July I planned to go to a place like Jaisalmer, for Manali, it had to be a December! Taking leave from my internship, I called a friend and the next thing I knew, I was packing my rucksack and heading for Kashmiri Gate Inter-state Bus Terminal (New Delhi) to catch an 8:30 PM Volvo to Manali.
Around 3-4 Volvos a day ply to and fro between Manali and Delhi, tickets of which can easily be booked online. Else there are continuous State Roadways buses between the two cities. A night journey in December gives you big time chills, especially if you’re headed to mountains and hence it’s advisable to wear appropriate woolens and carry a blanket in case you’re taking a normal State Roadways bus. It takes around 12-14 hours from Delhi to reach Manali via road. In case of trains, the nearest station to Manali is Chandigarh from where one can take a cab/bus to Manali.
Manali, so named from the Hindu God Manu, who like Noah of the Bible survived a Great flood and is believed to reside here. This area of Kullu Valley is also known as the Valley of the Gods as every village has its own deity. It is popular for skiing and surrounded by lush wooden slopes and majestic snow covered peaks. Manali- also known as Chamonix of India is most favorite mountain destination of tourist from all across India.
Manali is basically a small, close knit, beautiful hill station quite popular amongst the mountain lovers, so finding a place to stay or eat or shop will never be a problem. Author’s Advice: Take a hotel/lodge/guesthouse a little out of the main town, because that will give you a break-free crystal clear view of the Himalayas at a comparatively cheaper cost. Added bonus, isn’t it? I took one at a four kilometers distance from the Manali Bus Stand in Prini Village. Absolutely stunning view from the room’s balcony with all the requisite facilities and within a college going student’s pocket! What else could have I asked for.




Soon after checking in, we took some rest and then met the hotel’s manager. Pretty nice and helpful people, they will help you out in planning your entire trip. Most of the hotels have hired some tourist guides to help you with sightseeing and trekking. There are also bodies and associations which organize various trekking expeditions in and around Manali at various times of the year. We enrolled for one such expedition. First things first, we were asked to buy/rent Gum Boots without which trekking on snow is a BIG NO! Author’s Advice: Take the gum boots with fur inside them and a soft cushion sole and not the plastic, to make walking easier. Alongwith this some basic necessities like paper soap and a tiffin box to pack your lunch and other food stuff is required because up there are hardly any food stalls. All you’ll get at max is a Chai ki Tapri, so better carry your lunch box rather than starve while trekking. Author’s Advice: Do carry some packed snacks and munchings and do not over eat.
Our first trek was to the famous Hidimba Temple. Yes! The one shown in the famous movie Ye Jawani Hai Diwani. It was a 5-6 kilometer trek covered majourly with wet mud and some parts with snow. The Hidimbi Devi temple is built around a cave where Hidimba performed meditation. Hidimbi was supposed to have lived there with her brother Hidimba, and not much is known about their parents. Born into a Rakshas family, Hidimbi vowed to marry one who would defeat her brother Hidimba, who was supposed to be very brave and fearless. During the Pandava's exile, when they visited Manali; Bhima, one of the five Pandavas, killed Hidimba. Thereafter, Hidimbi married Bhima and gave birth to their son Ghatotkacha. The Hidimbi Devi Temple has intricately carved wooden doors and a tall wooden "shikhar" or tower above the sanctuary. An enormous rock occupies the inside of the temple, and only a 3-inch tall brass image representing goddess Hidimbi Devi is there. About seventy metres away from the temple, there is a shrine dedicated to Goddess Hidimbi's son, Ghatotkacha, who was born after she married Bhima.
Authors Advice: Near the Ghatotkacha Temple is a Giant Wheel. Do take a ride in the same for a bird’s eye view of nearby mountains. 








Our next day trek leads us to one Klath Hot Water Springs. Again some 5.30 kilometers trek. This trek basically happens along the Beas River. Absolutely clear water flowing over stones and boulders is a sight to take a halt-stay-and watch! 






The Hot Water Springs have been taken up by private agencies which have built various swimming pools (both private and public) and bathrooms. There are pipelines leading to these areas which bring in the hot sulphur water. It is said Sulphur water is good for curing various skin diseases. Even if we don’t care for that, the hot water bath at the pool for an hour or two is like a session at the spa, so effective, you feel so light as if years of your tiredness had gone in a jiffy! 




Back from Klath, we still had time and hence planned to visit the local Manali market. A perfect place for shopaholics with varieties of clothes and interior décor stuff and equally amazing for foodies like me! ‘N’ number of cafes serving local as well as other cuisines. Do hog on some chicken momos and the must have Thupka! Couple it with some beer, and your day is made! Author’s Advice: If you’re fond of drinking do try the local production of Apple Cider Wine. It’s really good in taste and comes at just Rs. 60/- a pint!




The third day was the most challenging! It was a trek towards the Sar Pass. Sar, in local dialect, means a lake. While trekking, across the path from Tila Lotni to Biskeri Ridge, one has to pass by a small, (normally) frozen lake (Sar) and hence the name Sar Pass. The feeling of being around 13,000 feet above sea level, with unspoilt milky white snow all around, cold winds blowing across your ears, Himalayas at their best, peace and calmness everywhere is a sight that settles deep down within your mind. 





But as they say, beautiful things doesn’t come easy, you have to pay the requisite prize. This one was one of the most difficult treks till now. The trek is completely covered with 5-6 feet deep snow which may lead to 8-10 feet as you move to higher altitudes. This trek wasn’t just about walking with a stick. It included walking, jumping and yes! Rolling down a 40-50 feet snow covered cliff!! Yes, you read it right, I did say rolling. But as I said earlier, the destination all these difficulties lead to, does makeup for them and how! Out of all the adventures I have done till date, this one does top the list!

Finally, the next day we took a Volvo back to Delhi thus ending this journey as a memory which walks with you to your grave!
Few other tit bits:
1. Don’t carry huge rucksacks en-route your treks. There a steep cliffs, small paths less than a feet in width, thorny bushes, etc. which will make trekking with a rucksack almost impossible. Take a small bag and keep the rest of the luggage back in your hotel.
2. Must have’s: Thermals, gloves, shades, towel, requisite medicines, paper soaps, pen knives, tissue roll, etc.
3. Love to booze? Then Manali is your perfect holiday destination. All kinds of booze is easily available in Manali at moderate rates. With temperatures shooting as low as a minus 15 to minus 18, an Old Monk by your bedside will definitely be a great companion! Author’s Advice: ‘Lugdi’ a kind of crude beer made from fermented rice or barley is a must have. But yes! All this while in your hotel/tent. Drinking while trekking is not advisable. You might land yourself in trouble and if nothing else, for sure, you’ll not be able to appreciate the natural beauty!



This beautiful travelogue  is written by our guest author Parth Yadav. :)

About Parth:
Currently pursuing his bachelors from National Law University, Lucknow is a bibliophile and an avid fiction lover. Travelling is not just his hobby but his passion. He likes to explore the unexplored and does things which aren't mainstream. Mountains, "supposedly" haunted destinations and bike trips are what attracts him the most. A certified trekker by the Youth Hostel Association of India, he dreams to cover the Himalayas on his bike someday!

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